Reasons why cats eliminate outside the litter box and things you can do to try to stop it.

1. Your cat may have a medical problem
Urinary tract infections are a common cause of a cat urinating all over the house.

Often a cat will inappropriately urinate because of a medical condition. Your vet can examine your cat to rule out medical conditions that could be causing the inappropriate urination problem. For example, a painful case of cystitis or urethral blockage may have your cat associating the pain of urination with the litter box and the cat will avoid the litter box.  The sooner you take your cat to the doctor, the quicker we can resolve the problem. Some medical conditions that cause inappropriate urination, can be painful and life threatening.

2. Diabetes and kidney disease
Diabetes and kidney disease in cats can cause increased urination and it’s possible your cat doesn’t make it to the litter box every time.  Your cat needs to see a veterinary doctor right away for an exam, blood work and a urinalysis.  Proper treatment can help your cat feel better and resolve the problem.

3. The litter box is dirty
Cats do not like using dirty litter boxes. Cats are clean animals. Scoop out soiled litter daily.  Remember that a cat’s sense of smell is about one thousand times greater than our own. Cats will not want to go near a litter box that smells offensive anymore than we would want to use a filthy bathroom.  Any time you see the cat using the litter box appropriately, praise your cat.  Never scold, yell or hit.  If you catch him in the act, gently pick him up and put him in the litter box.

4. Change of litter type or texture
Cats dislike sudden changes.  Some cats might be okay if you change the brand or type of litter you use.  Some cats will do okay if you change it over gradually.  Some cats will not tolerate a new litter.  If you have changed litter recently, switch back to the previous brand or type.  Also, consider the type of litter box you have.  Did you recently get a new type of box?  An older cat may need a bigger box and a one with lower sides or a ramp due to arthritis.  Some cats will urinate or defecate on tile or in the bathtub. These cats may prefer no litter in the box. Try using newspaper on the bottom of the box, or tilt the box using a pad or thin piece of wood. Put some litter in the low end. Your cat will use the end without litter and the urine will run down into the litter to be absorbed.

5. The location of the litter box is not in a good area or you moved it recently
Litter box location is very important.  A busy or noisy location can be frightening.  Put the litter tray in a quiet, easy to access location. Many cats like privacy. Some cats do not like to use the litter box near to where they eat. Do not put the litter box in a room or basement where the door may be closed and the cat cannot access it.  If you have children or company, the cat may not be able to get to the box when they need it.  Kittens might be too busy playing and forget where it is located.  Confining your cat to a small room such as the bathroom can often help matters. Once your cat is using the litter tray, gradually increase the area. Have the cat’s toys, food, water and litter box in the room.

6. Multiple cats
Some cats do not like sharing their litter box with other cats while some don’t mind at all. Maybe your cat is one of the former and requires his own personal litter box. Multi-cat households pose numerous problems. Cats are territorial and by instinct they need to have their own space. In a multi-cat household this is often impossible and stress levels in the cats are raised. One cat will urinate somewhere to show that this is their territory then along comes the next cat and urinates over the top to show that is their territory and so it perpetuates. Defecating can also be a problem with cats in a multi-cat household.  It’s sad to say but often there isn’t a solution to urine and defecation problems in a situation where there are multiple cats living in a confined area. You have the choice of cleaning up or reducing the number of cats.  Spraying can be a bigger problem with multiple cats. The general “rule” is one box per cat plus an extra one.

Determine if your cat is urinating or “spraying”.
These are two different behaviors.  Feline spraying (also called marking) is a cat depositing urine on vertical surfaces, such as furniture, doorways and walls.  The spraying cat may be seen to back into the area, the tail may quiver, and with little or no crouching the cat sprays the urine.  When cats spray urine it is not normal urination like when they need to eliminate. It is territorial marking behavior or it can be stress related.

Stressed kitties can eliminate inappropriately or spray.
Cats suffer from stress as well as humans. Cats are creatures of habit and thrive in a consistent and familiar atmosphere. When their ‘comfort zone’ is disrupted it can often result in stress that can contribute to inappropriate elimination.  Here are some questions to ask yourself. These could be reasons your cat may be stressed and has begun spraying.

• Did someone new come to live in the house? This could be stressful until the cat knows that person means no harm.  Just make sure the litter box is where the cat can get to it any time of day without running into somebody that may frighten them.
• Is there a new pet?  Maybe the new puppy chases the cat whenever the cat comes out and the cat doesn’t feel comfortable about using the litter box with that threat.
• Could your cat be a victim of a neighborhood cat that is coming into your yard?

Cats will, at times, mark their territory, letting other cats know that these are the boundaries and this area belongs to him.  Seeing another cat outside can cause marking or inappropriate urination. The cat could be marking his territory or is stressed because there is another cat in his territory.  If this is the case, you need to pull the curtains closed, close the blinds, move an outside feeding area out of sight, etc…This can definitely be a big cause of marking.  The marking cat feels it needs to mark its boundaries.

• Has your cat’s daily routine been changed in any way? Cats and dogs thrive and need daily routine to feel safe and comfortable.  Change should happen gradually if possible.
• Is your cat being bullied by another cat?  It is possible your cat is unable to get to the litter box because the bully cat is waiting for an opportunity to pounce on him.
• If your cat is marking and he is not neutered, that could be another reason why this all started in the first place.  All veterinary doctors say to neuter male cats at a young age before they start marking.  It could still resolve the problem after the marking has started but it will probably take longer and there is no guarantee.

Female cats can spray too.  Female marking isn’t as common but it does happen.

In some cases, your veterinarian may prescribe a trial of prescription medication.  Discuss anti-anxiety medication options with your vet. Any behavior altering medication must be combined with a behavior modification program.

There are pheromone products to try on the stressed cats. This therapy works by spraying a ‘friendly’ pheromone in places where your cat sprays. Also available are plug in diffusers. These pheromones pacify cats that are spraying urine around the house.

Lastly, there are devices made now that can keep a cat or a dog away from a certain area within your home.  Invisible Fence, the original invisible fence containment systems, carry these products.  Your cat would wear a special collar and be trained to stay away from “off limits” areas inside your home.  Also, if the problem is not resolved and your cat needs to stay outside, Invisible Fence now carries a containment system for felines similar to dogs.  You could check their website for these solutions; it’s another option.

Clean up all areas where the cat has previously sprayed as the scent can trigger them to spray again in the same area.

Ingredients:

• Baking Soda
• White Vinegar
• Dishwashing Detergent
• 3% Hydrogen Peroxide

Directions:

1. If the cat has recently urinated on the carpet, first absorb as much of the cat urine as possible using paper towels or an old towel. Place clean paper towels over the cat urine area and tread on them so as to absorb as much of the urine as possible. Repeat with dry towels until no more moisture can be absorbed.
If the cat urine has dried and you are not sure where the soiled area is you can use a black light (pictured above) to detect it. In a darkened room the black light will pick up urine and other stains.
2. Next, wet the area with a solution of 50% white vinegar and 50% water. Make sure you use enough of the solution to penetrate the fibers deep down. Allow it to almost dry. You can assist drying by blotting with paper towels as described above. If you own a wet and dry vacuum extractor use that to remove excess moisture. The acidity of the vinegar will neutralize the ammonia in the cat urine.
3. Apply a liberal amount of baking soda over the affected area and drizzle it with a quarter of a cup of hydrogen peroxide mixed with a teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent. (not caustic detergent that you put in a dishwasher) Work it in with a scrubbing brush or your fingers (be sure to wear rubber gloves) to dissolve the baking soda and work it down into the carpet. Allow it to dry. Then vacuum.  The vinegar will neutralize the ammonia and hydrogen peroxide is a powerful oxidizer capable of killing bacteria which cause the urine smells. Baking soda is a well known deodorizer which absorbs odors. Sprinkle it on your carpet monthly then vacuum up to keep your carpet smelling fresh all the time.

Important: Never use ammonia or ammonia-based products on the carpet. One of the ingredients of urine is ammonia and your cat may well be encouraged to re-offend in the same area if it detects the smell of ammonia. Many household cleaner cleaners contain ammonia so be sure to read the label. You may have to repeat the above process a few times for heavily soiled areas.

Caution, you should test your carpet for color fastness in an inconspicuous area for 24 hours.

Use only 3% Hydrogen Peroxide

Resolving inappropriate elimination can be tough.  Once a medical condition has been ruled out, start down the list of behavior modifications.  Keep trying, give it time and be patient.  Please keep in touch with veterinary professionals.  We want to help you resolve this problem so you can continue the loving and rewarding relationship you have with your feline friend.